=" /> The Mile High Eater

Monday, January 5, 2009

Wow... Chimney Park

Hi all


We went out to eat in Windsor the other night at the Chimney Park (http://www.chimneypark.com/). I have to say when a reader of the blog suggested I try a spot in Windsor; I did not think I would make it. I normally just don’t travel up that way very often but then I looked at the website and the menu and went hmm that looks good, and then I went to the spot where it talks about the chef and I was hooked. Chef Jason Shaeffer, was a opening sous chef at Per Se for two years. For those of you who don’t know, Per Se is Chef Thomas Keller’s restaurant in NYC and frequently regarded as one of the best restaurants in the country. We went to Per Se in May while we visited New York (see earlier blogs). With this information in hand, I went ahead and made reservations for us at Chimney Park with high expectations.


The restaurant is very easy to find. Just get off at the Windsor exit off I-25 and head east. It will be on the left hand side of the road about 4 miles down with very easy parking in front of the restaurant. The building the restaurant is in has been around since the 1800’s and the dining room is very pleasant to look at and to sit in and does not at any moment feel cramped. The restaurant offers a tasting menu and we tried that so we could get a range of items from the kitchen. The tasting menu is 4 courses and one thing that is different from a lot of places each person in your party receives a different item. Instead of everyone getting the same course, we each received something different, and thus, had to share! And very few of the items you receive on the tasting menu are items that are on the menu. Jason just makes you items on the spot. Chef Shaeffer is very willing to work with food preferences and is even happy to make a vegetarian menu which we did not try, but probably will next time as the vegetarian menu at Per Se was fantastic and I would like to see what he learned from there.


The first item out was the amuse bouche and the only item that we all received


app

He said: A great start. The cheese on the apple was just a great blend of sharp and sweet that just made you even hungrier than you were when you ate it. The “”” mirrored the apple and cheese with a nice sweet taste and a crisp crunch of the bread. This was very good start and I will give it a 7.

She said: This was a fantastic start to a great meal. The apple and cheese were crunchy and sweet. I would give it a 8.

Now, on to the first course
Barb had:
Gnudi

Gnudi with Hazel Dell Mushrooms, Black Truffles and Parmesan.

He said: I am afraid it's here all ready - YUMMMMMMMMMMMM! I love mushroom’s and this smelled fantastic even from across the table. I was hard pressed not to grab Barb's plate and gobble it all up. This had a great mushroom flavor offset by the rich gnudi. I wonder if I asked next time if he would do 4 courses of this. I have to give this a 10.

She said: I agree, YUM!I looked up gnudi and this is what one website said: The Italian term for "nude," these tender little dumplings are a cousin of gnocchi. Made with ricotta rather than potato". I like these better than gnocchi even. The mushroom and sauce made this a wonderful dish (even if I had to share it). I give it a 9.


Elena’s first Course.

Yellowtail Tuna

Honey-Lime Cured Yellowtail, Avocado Mousse, Jicama and Radish, Jalapeno Jelly

He said: When you tried it without the jelly it had a very pleasant lemon flavor which I liked a lot. It always surprises me when I like any raw fish. Something inside me just screams in protest about it, but so far have liked everything I have tried. I think a Sushi bar will soon be in my future. With my second bite I took a big dab of the Jalapeño Jelly (I am silly sometimes) and for a brief instant I did not realize what I had done as the initial sweet flavor started to wash over my tongue....then it came - HOT HOT, ouch, oww, WATER!! After I got done drinking and my companions got done smirking, I decided it really was a good dish and gave it a 7.

She Said: For some reason I wasn't feeling the love of raw fish that night and didn't try this at all. Maybe we should get Elena's opinion on this one!
Elena Piped-in: Fortunately, I love sushi and this was a wonderful mix of flavors. The tuna was very fresh and, if I recall correctly, nicely seared. When mixed with the other items on the dish, the textures and flavors melded surprisingly well…I was ready for the jalapeno jelly to take over; but, when strategically appied, it added a sweet zippiness to the dish. I’d give it an 8.

Jonathan’s First course.

Seared sea scallop

Seared Sea Scallop with Butternut Squash Puree and a ‘Stir Fry” of Boc Choy with a Soy Vinaigrette.

He said: On most occasions I can take or leave a scallop, mostly leave them and so was not that excited when this was laid out in front of me, especially with Barb's Gnudi staring at me from across the table. After assuring myself that jedi mind tricks were not going to make Barb switch plates with me, I dove in. I can’t believe I am saying this about of all things scallop, but Yum, and Wow. Cooked just perfectly and with the flavors of the butternut and soy vinaigrette mixed in, I was in love. Ten, I say yes, a 10 for a scallop. How strange.


She said: For those of you familiar with our blog, you know that I have an allergy to scallops, so again I didn't taste this dish. Elena - please step in with your comments:
Again, Elena Piped-in: I’m realizing that I was invited along in case seafood was a significant part of the menu. The scallop was perfectly cooked – tender and not at all flaky. And with boc choy? YUM! Ditto to that 10.


Barb's second course

Beat and Pear sald


Roasted Beet and Comice Pear Salad, Blue Cheese, Pecans and Arugula, Apple Cider-Black Pepper Gastrique

He said: Nice combination of flavors once again the sweet pear with the sharp blue cheese. The surprise for me at least was how well the beets went with this, just an all around good tasting dish. A 6 from me.

She Said: This was nice, but nothing out of the ordinary. The beets and pears mixed well together, but the gastrique was the winner of the dish for me. I would give it a 7.

Elana’s second course:

Chard and buttenut squash salad

Chard Stem and Butternut Squash Salad with Maple Vinaigrette, Chestnuts, Pomegranate and House Cured Duck Prosciutto.

He said: This was a very nice looking dish and over all the presentation of each and every dish was fantastic. And, what is even better is most dishes tasted as good as they looked! A maple vinaigrette, wow, that was tasty and the duck was great as well. Wasn’t a huge fan of the chestnuts but I really dug this dish overall and will give it a 7.

She said: This was a nice dish. All of the textures mixed well together. And you know I like duck! I agree with Jonathan in that the chestnuts didn't do it for me either. I will agree with his score of 7 and agree that the plating on all our dishes was fantastic!

Jonathan’s second course:
Caesar Salad


Romaine Caesar with Grilled Bread Piquillo Peppers and White Anchovies

He said: The name pretty much says it, and as a Caesar salad it was fine and I liked the peppers but the salty anchovies, meh not so much. Looking at the entire night I would say this was the low point of the meal. It was not bad, but wasn’t anything special really. I give it a 5.

She said: Anchovies? Ok, I've been brave in all lately, but did not try this (I still have some growing to do in my palate...I know).


Barbara's Main Course;

Bison New York Strip

Bison New York Strip, Basil Potatoes, Oven Dried Tomatoes and Green Beans and a Black Olive Sauce.

He said: Huge portion for a tasting menu and cooked perfectly. The basil potatoes were much better than I expected, in fact I would call them great. And even the olive sauce heightened the taste. I would go an 8 for this.

She Said: The meat was juicy and tender and delicious. I didn't want to share this, but I did. Overall, a great dish and truly enjoyed. I would give it a 8.5.


Elena's main course:

Cab filet of rib

Cab Filet of Rib, Goat cheese Polenta, Artichokes and Spinach Tomato Au Jus.

He said: Once again a very large portion for a tasting menu and once again cooked perfectly! I loved the polenta and the filet was amazingly tender. Honestly the artichokes and spinach didn’t do much for me but the meat just melted in your mouth. I have to give this another 8.

She said: I agree with Jonathan, the meat was delicious and melt worthy. I stuggle with too tough of meat, and did not have that problem at all here. The artichokes were nicely cooked as well. I too, would give it an 8.

Jonathan's Main Course.


Duck 2 ways


Duck 2 ways - Duck Breast and Thigh Comfit, Braised Radish and Pearl Onions with Pancetta, served with an Apple Ginger Sauce

He Said: Main courses - 3 for 3. All just fantastic. The crispy skin and tender meat of the comfit and the tender moist meat of the breast. I am a huge onion guy and those onions were devoured quickly. The mixture of tastes here was perfect. The apple ginger sauce blended perfectly in and this was a thoroughly enjoyed dish. Another 8.

She Said: Yummy, duck! I'm surprised Jonathan shared this with me, but he did. I enjoyed the crispy and tender meat just as much, and the onions and radish blended in nicely with the tastes and textures. I would also give this an 8.



Barb's Dessert:


"Pastel de Tres Leches"

Pastel de Tres Leches, Cream Soaked Vanilla Cake with Ripe Mango and Rum Caramel Sauce

He Said: Served warm, the nice rich caramel flavor combined with the mango was really good. I will give it a 6

She Said: I do love caramel, and wasn't sure about the mango, but the combination was good. I kept thinking I was done, but found myself sneaking in another spoonful or two. I would give this a 7.5.


Elena's Dessert:

Carrot cake

Ginger-Almond Carrot Cake, Toasted Almonds and Mascarpone Icing

He said: Another good tasting dessert and I like the icing, however there was a problem with this. As you can see, the dessert is 2 tiered and I am guessing they store the individual cakes wrapped in plastic wrap and put them together right before being served. I say this, because there was a small bit of plastic wrap in between the two cakes. Elena saw it before it made it into her mouth and it did not effect the taste of the item, but after how good the entire meal had been it was a big letdown and took down the overall feeling of the evening. I will give it a 6 but will have to deduct from the over allscore for this.


She said: Another great dessert and except for the mishap well done. I liked the nuts and the cake blended in together, although wasn't a huge fan of the carrot's on top. I would give this a 6.5.

Jonathan's Dessert:

IMG_0524

Chocolate Brioche Bread Pudding, Butterscotch Anglaise and Macadamia Nut Brittle
and Pomegranate seeds


He Said: This was served warm and was very rich. The pomegranate seeds just drove it up another level with that fresh sweet flavor mixed in with the deep rich chocolate. Yum, I would go ahead and give this a 7

She Said: This was a good dish. We had chocolate bread pudding somewhere else and I didn't like it as much as I liked this one. Rich, chocolately, nutty - where could you go wrong? I would give it a 7.5.



Wow this was just a great overall dining experience. For those of you have visited often you know we love a tasting menu and one where everyone gets different items is just fantastic. The over all score is 7.95. This includes a .75 jump for the 5 course or better tasting a .1 bump for the fact everyone gets a different item each course and a -.5 drop for the plastic wrap incident.


I know Windsor is a bit out of the way but you really need to go try out this chefs terrific restaurant. Happy new year to everyone and thanks for coming back to our colorado food blog.! As always if have questions or comments feel free to email us at jonathan or barb @milehigheater.com



Member of the Boxxet Network of Blogs, Videos and Photos








Chimney Park on Urbanspoon

Monday, December 15, 2008

A talk and recipe from Chef Seidel of Fruition

Hi all

This is the second part of our post for our meal at Fruition restaurant in Denver where we asked Chef Alex Seidel a few questions and he was nice enough to even gicve us a recipe to share with you.


Below is a picture of the chef.

IMG_0445



1. What attracted you to cooking? At age 14, I started working in kitchens washing dishes and light prep work. When I went to college, I played soccer and the job that fit my free time was night cook. I started at a nice trattoria in Wisconsin. There I had two chefs that had worked in California and they introduced me to simple things like fresh herbs, stocks, and sauces. It was the opportunity to work with these guys and learn about food that I had never been introduced to in Wisconsin. I was hungry for more information. As my love grew for food, I wanted to focus more on it. So I quit college 30 credits shy and saved money to attend culinary school. I have been traveling, eating, and working ever since.




2. What is the philosophy behind your cooking, or in your kitchen? Whenever I interview someone, one of the first things I share is my philosophy on food and cooking. Most people that I know who love to cook enjoy everything from the shopping to the prepping to cooking and finally seeing the reaction once you serve your food. In the restaurant world sometimes the fun is taken out of it. Stressed out chefs, budgets are tight, employee relations, and a lot of other things that make the restaurant business tough. Through all that, I really try to create a culture that is a positive environment. My cooks and I share many laughs. We talk about food and why things work and why they don't. I hire based on attitude and work ethic, not experience. That way we can learn from each other-together. We are always trying to better understand our craft of cooking food. We don't have the pressure of brain surgery or rocket science. We are applying heat to proteins and vegetables. The bottom line is-if you love cooking-enjoy it and lets have pride in what we do and push ourselves to put out the best possible food that we can. We don't compete with other restaurants, we compete everyday with ourselves.

3. What is the biggest influence on the way you cook? Obviously, it is hard to not be influenced by myself. I love food and I also know what I like to eat. Although, in the restaurant business I am not cooking for myself. The customer and the demand from the customer is what influences the way I cook. I think people want to enjoy good food. Sometimes it is hard to find good food without going to a white tablecloth establishment and ordering the 10 course pre-fix. Trust me, I love to eat like that, but it is for a very small niche of people. I try to serve people food that they understand, that is approachable, and that they enjoy for a very reasonable price. I feel very good about the quality, technique, and seasonal approach that we take with our food

4. Is there a chef living today you would like to work with? Umm, yeh a few. There are so many great chefs in the world today. I have dined in many of there restaurants. I worked for Hubert Keller when I was in California but never for any other celebrity chefs. Thomas Keller, Eric Ripert, Jean-George, Daniel Bolud, Grant Achutz-just to name a few. These guys have unbelievable talent and knowledge. It would be an honor to work with these guys

5. Is there a particular ingredient you like to cook with more than others? I do like to cook with offal’s. Taking scrap and parts of animals that people don't think of using and turning that into something delicious is rewarding to me. When it comes to most things though, I always like change. People always ask "what is your favorite thing to cook?" and my response has always been I don't have a favorite dish-I like to create new dishes.

6. If stuck on a desert isle and could have one meal from then on out what would it be? Well's Brothers Pizza. It is a little Italian family-owned pizzaria in Wisconsin. It's the only thing I have to eat when I go back home for visits. Thin semolina crust with a sweet oregano flavor in the sauce. It is so good. You can take the boy out of Wisconsin but not the Wisconsin out of the boy

7. Is someone asked you for two Colorado restaurants to try other than your own what would you suggest? Frasca in Boulder and the Little Nell in Aspen.

8. How about one restaurant any where in the world? El Bulli in Spain

9. Would you be willing to share a recipe with us? Of course. I am not a really good recipe guy. We try to understand the fundamentals of cooking and why things are balanced. So I try to get my chefs to cook from the heart. I do have a couple of recipes and you are welcome to them all.
Fruition’s Potato Wrapped Oyster Rockefeller Recipe
Recipe Makes 45 oysters
4ea Russet potato (large)
45ea Oysters
3# Baby Spinach
1# Naturally Smoked Bacon
¼cu Sherry Vinegar
2cu Parmesan-Leek Emulsion (recipe follows)

Russet Potato-Colorado Grown in San Luis Valley (certified organic and non-irradiated)
Cut three potatoes lengthwise right down the middle. Working from the middle, with skin still on, thinly slice the potato to about the thickness of a potato chip. Make 45 center-cut chips and hold in cold water. Blanch potatoes in salted boiling water for one minute or just until you can roll the potato without it snapping. Shock in an ice bath, strain, and pat dry.

Oysters-West Coast Variety (preferably Hama-Hama)
Shuck oysters making sure there is no shell debris left over. Roll the oyster in the potato and secure with a toothpick. Fry in peanut oil at 350 degrees for two minutes or until the potato is golden and crispy.

Spinach-Colorado Grown
Cube bacon and render it over medium heat. Pour off excess bacon fat and add the spinach leaves. Wilt the spinach and finish with sherry vinegar, salt, and pepper.

Parmesan-Leek Emulsion
9ea Leeks (medium dice)
1ea Yellow onion (medium dice)
1ea Russet potato (peeled and large diced)
½cu white wine
½qt heavy cream
½cu parmesan
1bu Italian Parsley (finely chopped)
Sweat onion and leeks until translucent. Add the remaining russet potato and deglaze with white wine. Reduce the wine until almost gone and add the heavy cream. Cook the potato in the liquid mixture and use it as a natural thickener for the emulsion. Finish with parmesan, parsley, salt, and pepper. Puree in a blender and hold warm for service.



As always thanks for coming by the blog and if you have any questions or thoughts feel free to leave a comment or email us at barb or jonathan @milehigheater.com.



Member of the Boxxet Network of Blogs, Videos and Photos






Monday, December 8, 2008

Fruition

Hi all,

Barb, our friend Elena and myself made it out to Chef Alex Seidel’s restaurant Fruition this week (http://www.fruitionrestaurant.com). Chef Siedel was Executive Chef at Mizuna before he opened up Fruition and the food and flavors he put out here are wonderful. In general we found the flavors very straight forward and almost comforting in a way. The dining room is small and cozy; we did not have a cramped feeling even with people at all the tables around us. The wait staff was very knowledgeable about not only the food but the wine available and seemed to genuinely care about your experience at the restaurant.

IMG_0451

We decided to split 2 appetizers between the 3 of us the first of which was:

IMG_0432

Riesling Poached Pear Warm Pancetta Wrapped Dates, 34º Sheep’s Milk Feta, Candied Pecans

He said: For me the stand out here was the cheese, the sharp feta taste went so very well with the sweet pears and candied pecans. The flavors combined so well together that I almost forgot about the greens even when I was eating them and in fact don’t really have much of a memory of them even though the dinner was just last night. This was great start and I would give it a 7.

She said: This was a great starter. The sweet pears mixed perfectly with the cheese and greens. I'm discovering that I'm enjoying these different cheeses that I would have never tried before. I would also give this a 7.



The Next Appetizer


IMG_0433

Crispy Duck Leg Confit Maple-Candied Sweet Potato, Toasted Hazelnut Salad, Golden Raisin Vinaigrette


He Said: This dish was very good by itself. With the very crisp skin that had a nice crunch then just melted away in your mouth and the sweet potatoes went very well with this even though I am not a sweet potato guy. If this would have been served by itself it was good enough to get a 8 but when you combined it with the sweet pear taste of the other dish, OH MY, that was good they should always have these together. But since that’s not the case I will keep with the 8.

She said: Yummy. Duck Confit and sweet potatoes, instant gratification for me. The duck was cooked perfectly and mixed in with the sweet potatoes and hazelnut salad was just the perfect combination for me. I would give it an 9.



Elena’s Main course:


fruition emain


Maple Leaf Farms Duck Breast
Carnaroli Risotto, Grilled Arugula & Smoked Duck Prosciutto, Red Onion Marmalade

He Said: DING DING WOOP WOOP we have a winner!! This was amazing, the duck had a fantastic flavor and the prosciutto was very nice. But, that risotto was out of this world. I would have been happy to have an entire plate of it. Sadly, Elena also liked this so I could not steal too much - lol. If this had just been a risotto course I would give it a 10 no problem, but I do have to measure the overall course and while every thing on the plate did taste great and it did draw a mmm from 2 of us it was not the best duck I have had, so I will give it a 9. The waiter told us this was the only dish that had been on the menu from the beginning and I can see why.

She said: Yes, I was the naysayer on the risotto. It's just not my thing, and I didn't go all gooey over it. The duck was very good though and I think even on it's on, I would have enjoyed it. I give this a 8.


Barb's Main course

Fruiton Barb Main

Salmon Creek Farms Roasted Pork Tenderloin, Bacon Braised Brussel Sprouts, Fingerling Potato Confit, Pommery Mustard Emulsion

He said: Another very nice course. The pork was cooked perfectly and the sauce had a very nice strong taste that was just plain good. I would give this a 7.5

She Said: The tenderloin was juicy and tender, and mixed with all of the ingredients on the plate made me very happy. I'm not usually a mustard fan, but didn't mind it as the emulsion this time. I would give this an 8.


Jonathan's Main Course:


Fruition Jonathan

Braised Colorado Lamb Shank, Crispy Parmesan Polenta, Eggplant & Roasted Pepper Ratatouille, Goat Cheese Vinaigrette


He said: I was of two minds on this before I ordered; I love lamb, so it really called to me, but I have had bad experiences with polenta and have never had a good ratatouille. I talked to our waiter and he said it was a good dish though so I gave it a go. I am so very glad I did. The lamb was cooked like the other dishes we shared that night, perfectly with the meat practically falling off the bone. The polenta was just plain yum. I actually wanted more polenta and that never ever happens and the ratatouille had such a nice flavor I finished all of it even though I had to leave some meat behind as my appetite was reaching its limit. I would give this an 8.

She Said: I don't think I got the opportunity to try Jonathan's dish. At least I really don't remember trying it. Was this because he was hording, or I was just enjoying my tenderloin so much. So, I don't feel I can give this a score. :(


For desserts we decided to split 2 and our first was:

IMG_0446

Valrhona Chocolate Cake, Vanilla Bean & Malted Milk Shake, Chocolate Ganache
Macadamia Nut Brittle

He said: This was good. Not sure how this kind of dish would not be good unless you did not like chocolate. But no better than good, I will give it a 6.

She said: This was very good, and I do like chocolate! The crunchy brittle mixed in with the warm gooey cake was a winner for me. The malted milk shake was just filler for me, but was tasty. I will give this an 8.

Dessert number 2

fruition dessert1

Warm Sticky Toffee-Date Cake, Gala Apple Compote, Crème Fraiche Ice Cream, Hot Toffee Sauce


He said: Now this was very tasty, which surprised me because I am not a huge fan of caramel and its like, but the apple compote was very rich in flavor and the over all taste just warmed you up and satisfied quickly. I would go ahead and give this a 7.5


She Said: Unlike my hubby, I do like caramel and mixed together with all of the other ingredients blended nicely on my spoon. Rich caramel, warm apple compote, cool ice cream....yum! I would give this an 8.5.




The numbers the over all score here was an 7.81 which is a very good score especially for a non tasting menu. (As I have stated before we give a .75 overall boost to any 5 course or more meal.) Fruition is a great place to go for a wonderful meal and as I stated earlier the flavors are spot on and not all that complicated which in some ways just enhances the meal.


We all had a fantastic dinner and would recommend Fruition highly, and if you do stop by, make sure you let them know you read about them here! Chef Seidel also took the time to answer a few questions and to give us a recipe which we will post next week! Thanks again for stopping by our Colorado based food blog. We are very happy to share our experiences at Colorado restaurants with you and of course the restaurants at places we travel. If you have any questions, comments or know a place we should try, please let us know. We would love to hear from you either by leaving a comment here or email us at jonathan@milehigheater.com or barb@milehigheater.com


Member of the Boxxet Network of Blogs, Videos and Photos








Fruition on Urbanspoon

Monday, December 1, 2008

A few questions and a recipe with Chef Lindley of St Johns

Hi all

This week we have a question and answer with St John’s chef Daniel Lindley He was also nice enough to share a recipe with us. Sadly we don’t have a picture for you but we do highly suggest you give the ST John a try if you’re in the area.



1. What attracted you to cooking? Cooking involves the senses perhaps more so than any occupation. My first restaurant job was at age seventeen washing dishes and I remember being exhilarated by the smells in the kitchen. I enjoy the pressure and performance aspect of the job as well.

2. What is the philosophy behind your cooking, or in your kitchen? I am certainly a product driven chef. I like to think of my food as being refined but not too fussy or overdone

3. What is the biggest influence on the way you cook? My drive for balance certainly influences the way I cook. My kitchens physical parameters certainly influence the way I cook here at St. John's. We have a very small kitchen. What we do with five cooks in my kitchen, restaurants in New York do with twelve or more (literally).

4. Is there a chef living today you would like to work with? I am a huge fan of Daniel Humm of Eleven Madison in NYC


5. Is there a particular ingredient you like to cook with more than others? Mushrooms-morels especially

6. If stuck on a desert isle and could have one meal from then on out what would it be? . Braised Beef Cheeks with yukon gold potato puree & balsamic onion relish
7. Besides your own what restaurants would you recommend any where in the world. Eleven Madison (NYC)
Osteria La Piana (Siena, Italy)



8. Would you be willing to share a recipe with us?

Roasted "Cinderella" Pumpkin Soup
For the pumpkin- split one pumpkin horizontally, scrape the seeds out, score the flesh, press cubes of butter in scored areas, drizzle with olive oil, season with salt and pepper and roast until pumpkin is caramelized and very tender. 375 degrees to 425. When finished let it rest for 15 minutes and then scrape out the flesh. Discard the skin and liquid in the pan.
While the pumpkin is roasting- small dice 4 large shallots, 2 peeled winesap apples and one bulb of fennel. Sweat this mixture out until very tender with olive oil and butter. Season with salt and pepper.
Pureeing the soup- marry the shallot, apple & fennel mixture with the roasted pumpkin in a blender and puree until smooth. Finish with a touch of heavy cream while in blender and adjust seasoning if necessary.
To serve- heat soup and bowl. Garnish with chopped pancetta or guanciale and scoop a quenelle of whipped creme fraiche infused with a touch of nutmeg on top. Finish with minced chives.
Key reminders- pumpkin must be roasted fully. Not Baked! The carmelization makes the soup. Also Veg/apple mixture must be very tender before it is blended.



As always thanks for stopping by and if you happen to stop by one of the restaurants you find in our blog let them know you heard about them here! If you have any questions or comments we would love to here from you at Barb or Jonathan @milehigheater.com


Member of the Boxxet Network of Blogs, Videos and Photos










Sunday, November 23, 2008

A little southern comfort, at ST Johns in Chattanoga Tn

A little southern comfort...The St. John's in Chattanooga, Tennessee.




Barb and I were recently in Chattanooga to see some relatives and while we were there decided to try out St. John's (www.stjohnsrestaurant.com) on the recommendation from people on the Chowhound boards (www.chowhound.com). The Chef is Daniel Lindley who puts on a fantastic seasonal menu. The night we were there the chef was away but his sous-chef Josh did a great job with our meal.


IMG_0108

The restaurant itself is in downtown Chattanooga and is a converted hotel. The space is very open with high ceilings and a very nice feel to it. With 2 floors and the tables spread out nicely you never feel cramped. The staff do a great job of the service with everything being served smoothly and the pacing near perfect. I can only imagine how tired a new wait person must be at the end of the night after running up and down the stairs all night.


IMG_0112


IMG_0113

We were seated and our server Bethany came over and greeted us and spoke a bit about the menu and a bit about the restaurant itself. She spoke highly about two of the menu items and I decided to go with her recommendations while Barb chose a few others.

The first item that came out was an Amuse Bouche.
IMG_0122
Hawaiian Walu fish with Tomatilla sauce, cucumber, radish, and basil.

He says:
The textures here were great with the vegetables giving it a nice crunch and the fish being soft and tender and a great slightly spicy taste of the sauce. I will give this a 7.

She says:
The fish was very delicate and tasty. The veggies were a nice combination and left us hungry for more. I too, give it a 7.



IMG_0119

Ok, I normally do not show bread but this came with a nice little story attached. The white bread is the Chef's mothers recipe and from what I am told every time she comes to eat she makes sure to tell the wait staff to make sure they let people know that it's her bread. So, just wanted to pass that along and say yes, it is brag worthy. A great fresh bread is a hard thing to beat.


Barb's First Course

IMG_0128

Roasted Texas Cross Quail with Apples and Chorizo Stuffing and a Whisky-maple Glaze

She says:
The quail was cooked perfectly, the presentation of it was cute (with the crossed legs) and the flavors were amazing. The glaze was delicious, and the stuffing was a nice mixture of stuffing, chorizo and apple. This was a great starter to the meal. I would give it an 8.

He says:
The quail was cooked very well, the skin nice and crisp and the glaze has a smoky sweet flavor that was great. The stuffing was good as well but I have to be honest here I was so taken with my first course that I do not have a strong memory of it. I will give this a 7.5


Jonathan's First
IMG_0126

Maine Lobster & Saffron Soup - Delicata Squash Ravioli and Celery.

He says:
The soup also had roasted pumpkin seeds in it and a deep woodsy flavor that I just loved and paired with the lobster made for a taste that went together so well that I ended up eating this very slow because I wanted to savor the tastes more and more. The only thing I will say against this dish, and it is a weird thing to complain about is the ravioli really did not need to be there and added almost nothing to the dish. The soup and the lobster were the stars here! This did not pull a yum out of my lips but was very close to it, 8.5 is what I will give it

She says:
I had a very small taste of this as I was enjoying my quail so much. The flavors were deep and smoky, all in all, it was very tasty. I would give it a 7.5.

At this point the kitchen sent out a little bonus for us to enjoy.

IMG_0131

Sequacthie Cove Farms Baby Beef, with a Red Wine Vinaigrette, Shallots, Capers, and Parsley with a Fried Egg and Mustard Aioli with some toasted bread.

He says:
I saw this coming out and was not pleased. I have had tartar two times before and both times I have been pretty underwhelmed but decided, well might as well give it a go and this was good. Very good. The meat and vinaigrette has a nice tartish flavor, the egg was still warm and perfectly cooked and the mustard aioli just gave the perfect additional flavor that you just caught at the edge of your tongue. Another 8from me. I would like to note even though this is the best tartar I have had it did not give me a yumm so can't give it a “best of type“ rating.

She says:
When I saw this I was skeptical. I am not a big fan of tartar, but when in Rome. The trick to this dish was getting a little bit of everything. And when done properly, this dish was a delightful surprise. I really didn't think I would like it, but I did. Again, I think it was the combination of all the flavors that made it unique and special. I would give it an 8.

Barb's Main
IMG_0133
Smoked Hudson Valley Duck Breast with Sweet Potato Gratin and Cherry Cognac Reduction.
He says:
Ok, this intrigued me. You bite into it and a citrus flavor hits you at first followed by a fairly strong flavor that I just could not figure out so I kept on poaching from Barb's plate trying to figure it out. Finally I asked, and the duck is rubbed with a orange rub then is smoked in hickory. This combo just gave a taste I really can't describe, but I liked it and it kept making me want a little more. I am not a big fan of sweet potatoes, so was not a big fan of those. I will give it a 7.

She says:
The duck was cooked perfectly and the mixture of cherry cognac with the duck was spot on. A slight sweetness mixed in with the duck taste. I liked the sweet potatoes, they were a nice contrast to the duck. My only problem was that the duck was a little tough for me, but all in all the dish was very good. I would give it an 8.

Jonathan's Main


IMG_0134

Broken Arrow Ranch Axis Venison with Wildwood Farms Delicata Squash, Stone Ground Grits and Summer Truffle Jus.

He says:
MMMM YUMMMM! Ok, deer is not supposed to be this tender, just is not suppose to be. Venision is a little tough and a bit gamey, it is not supposed to melt in your mouth like this did. Tender with an out of this world flavor that just sings. From what I understand, Axis deer are native to India and Nepal and you know it would almost be worth going to live there just to have this again. The grits were very good and the squash was nice but darn that deer was good. A solid 10, I doubt I will ever taste venison that tender again.
She says:
The venison was so tender that it almost melted in your mouth. I actually begged for a couple of more pieces, it was soooo good. The flavorings was perfect and the venison was tasty. I would give it a 9.


Barb's Dessert

IMG_0145

Pineapple & Butternut Squash Bread Pudding with Coconut Gelato and Run Caramel

He says:
This was nice and rich and different it was nice to see a inventive dessert that breaks the mold at the same time is really good. Too many restaurants seem to have great mains but the desserts are kind of an after thought. These here seem to have had a lot of thought put in to make it as much as an experience as the meal itself. A 7 here.

She says:
My dessert was very good. The bread pudding was nice and warm still, topped with caramel sauce and mixed with the coconut gelato. It was soothing to my mouth. I would give it a 7.

Jonathan’s Dessert

IMG_0147

Carrot Cake Souffle with Cream Cheese Anglaise

He says:
This was not your standard carrot cake, this was rich and served warm with a flavor that had a carrot flavor but not a overwhelming one. I really liked it. I give it a 7.

She says:
I wasn't a huge fan of this. The server brought out the dish and then punctured the top of it with a spoon and poured in the cream cheese anglaise so that the flavors would mix together. The tastes were fine, but just didn't blow me away. I would give it a 6.

Bonus Dessert

IMG_0140

Banana Split; Banana Ice Cream in a Chocolate Gnosh Bowl with a Strawberry Caramel Sauce and a Chocolate Covered Cherry.

He says;
Very, very good. The house made ice cream was incredibly rich and of course how can you go wrong with a chocolate bowl. I'll give this a 8.

She says:
If I would have known they were going to throw in another dessert, I would have never ordered one - but what a nice surprise. The house made banana ice cream was the real treat in this dessert. I could have had a bowlful of it and been very happy. I would give this dish an 8 as well.

Numbers and such With the .75 add on for a 5 course or more meal St Johns scored a 8.44 score which is pretty good indeed. We had a great time here and would highly suggest you give it a try if your in Chattanooga! The chef answered a few questions for us and gave us a very yummy looking recipe which will be in next weeks post. The over all cost of this meal was 123.45.




Thanks as always for coming by and if have any questions or ideas where we should go in the future feel free to drop us a line at jonathan or barb @milehigheater.com




Member of the Boxxet Network of Blogs, Videos and Photos






Friday, November 21, 2008

Chimney Park

Hi all,


We went out to eat in Windsor the other night at the Chimney Park (http://www.chimneypark.com/). I have to say when a reader of the blog suggested I try a spot in Windsor, I did not think I would make it. I normally just don’t travel up that way very often but then I looked at the website and the menu and went hmm that looks good, and then I went to the spot where it talks about the chef and I was hooked. Chef Jason Shaeffer, was a opening sous chef at Per Se for two years. For those of you who don’t know, Per Se is Chef Thomas Keller’s restaurant in NYC and frequently regarded as one of the best restaurants in the country. We went to Per Se in May while we visited New York (see earlier blogs). With this information in hand, I went ahead and made reservations for us at Chimney Park with high expectations.


The restaurant is very easy to find. Just get off at the Windsor exit off I-25 and head east. It will be on the left hand side of the road about 4 miles down with very easy parking in front of the restaurant. The building the restaurant is in has been around since the 1800’s and the dining room is very pleasant to look at and to sit in and does not at any moment feel cramped. The restaurant offers a tasting menu and we tried that so we could get a range of items from the kitchen. The tasting menu is 4 courses and one thing that is different from a lot of places each person in your party receives a different item. Instead of everyone getting the same course, we each received something different, and thus, had to share! And very few of the items you receive on the tasting menu are items that are on the menu. Jason just makes you items on the spot. Chef Shaeffer is very willing to work with food preferences and is even happy to make a vegetarian menu which we did not try, but probably will next time as the vegetarian menu at Per Se was fantastic and I would like to see what he learned from there.


The first item out was the amuse bouche and the only item that we all received


app



He said: A great start. The cheese on the apple was just a great blend of sharp and sweet that just made you even hungrier than you were when you ate it. The “”” mirrored the apple and cheese with a nice sweet taste and a crisp crunch of the bread. This was very good start and I will give it a 7.

She said: This was a fantastic start to a great meal. The apple and cheese were crunchy and sweet. I would give it a 8.

Now, on to the first course
Barb had:
Gnudi

Gnudi with Hazel Dell Mushrooms, Black Truffles and Parmesan.

He said: I am afraid it's here all ready - YUMMMMMMMMMMMM! I love mushroom’s and this smelled fantastic even from across the table. I was hard pressed not to grab Barb's plate and gobble it all up. This had a great mushroom flavor offset by the rich gnudi. I wonder if I asked next time if he would do 4 courses of this. I have to give this a 9.

She said: I agree, YUM!I looked up gnudi and this is what one website said: The Italian term for "nude," these tender little dumplings are a cousin of gnocchi. Made with ricotta rather than potato". I like these better than gnocchi even. The mushroom and sauce made this a wonderful dish (even if I had to share it). I give it a 9 as well.


Elena’s first Course.

Yellowtail Tuna

Honey-Lime Cured Yellowtail, Avocado Mousse, Jicama and Radish, Jalapeno Jelly

He said: When you tried it without the jelly it had a very pleasant lemon flavor which I liked a lot. It always surprises me when I like any raw fish. Something inside me just screams in protest about it, but so far have liked everything I have tried. I think a Sushi bar will soon be in my future. With my second bite I took a big dab of the Jalapeño Jelly (I am silly sometimes) and for a brief instant I did not realize what I had done as the initial sweet flavor started to wash over my tongue....then it came - HOT HOT, ouch, oww, WATER!! After I got done drinking and my companions got done smirking, I decided it really was a good dish and gave it a 7.

She Said: For some reason I wasn't feeling the love of raw fish that night and didn't try this at all. Maybe we should get Elena's opinion on this one!

Jonathan’s First course.

Seared sea scallop

Seared Sea Scallop with Butternut Squash Puree and a ‘Stir Fry” of Boc Choy with a Soy Vinaigrette.

He said: On most occasions I can take or leave a scallop, mostly leave them and so was not that excited when this was laid out in front of me, especially with Barb's Gnudi staring at me from across the table. After assuring myself that jedi mind tricks were not going to make Barb switch plates with me, I dove in. I can’t believe I am saying this about of all things scallop, but Yum, and Wow. Cooked just perfectly and with the flavors of the butternut and soy vinaigrette mixed in, I was in love. Ten, I say yes, a 10 for a scallop. How strange.


She said: For those of you familiar with our blog, you know that I have an allergy to scallops, so again I didn't taste this dish. Elena - please step in with your comments:


Barb's second course

Beat and Pear sald


Roasted Beet and Comice Pear Salad, Blue Cheese, Pecans and Arugula, Apple Cider-Black Pepper Gastrique

He said: Nice combination of flavors once again the sweet pear with the sharp blue cheese. The surprise for me at least was how well the beets went with this, just an all around good tasting dish. A 6 from me.

She Said: This was nice, but nothing out of the ordinary. The beets and pears mixed well together, but the gastrique was the winner of the dish for me. I would give it a 7.

Elana’s second course:

Chard and buttenut squash salad

Chard Stem and Butternut Squash Salad with Maple Vinaigrette, Chestnuts, Pomegranate and House Cured Duck Prosciutto.

He said: This was a very nice looking dish and over all the presentation of each and every dish was fantastic. And, what is even better is most dishes tasted as good as they looked! A maple vinaigrette, wow, that was tasty and the duck was great as well. Wasn’t a huge fan of the chestnuts but I really dug this dish overall and will give it a 7.

She said: This was a nice dish. All of the textures mixed well together. And you know I like duck! I agree with Jonathan in that the chestnuts didn't do it for me either. I will agree with his score of 7 and agree that the plating on all our dishes was fantastic!

Jonathan’s second course:
Caesar Salad


Romaine Caesar with Grilled Bread Piquillo Peppers and White Anchovies

He said: The name pretty much says it, and as a Caeser salad it was fine and I liked the peppers but the salty anchovies, meh not so much. Looking at the entire night I would say this was the low point of the meal. It was not bad, but wasn’t anything special really. I give it a 5.

She said: Anchovies? Ok, I've been brave in all lately, but did not try this (I still have some growing to do in my palate...I know).


Barbara's Main Course;

Bison New York Strip

Bison New York Strip, Basil Potatoes, Oven Dried Tomatoes and Green Beans and a Black Olive Sauce.

He said: Huge portion for a tasting menu and cooked perfectly. The basil potatoes were much better than I expected, in fact I would call them great. And even the olive sauce heightened the taste. I would go an 8 for this.

She Said: The meat was juicy and tender and delicious. I didn't want to share this, but I did. Overall, a great dish and truly enjoyed. I would give it a 8.5.


Elena's main course:

Cab filet of rib

Cab Filet of Rib, Goat cheese Polenta, Artichokes and Spinach Tomato Au Jus.

He said: Once again a very large portion for a tasting menu and once again cooked perfectly! I loved the polenta and the filet was amazingly tender. Honestly the artichokes and spinach didn’t do much for me but the meat just melted in your mouth. I have to give this another 8.

She said: I agree with Jonathan, the meat was delicious and melt worthy. I stuggle with too tough of meat, and did not have that problem at all here. The artichokes were nicely cooked as well. I too, would give it an 8.

Jonathan's Main Course.


Duck 2 ways


Duck 2 ways - Duck Breast and Thigh Comfit, Braised Radish and Pearl Onions with Pancetta, served with an Apple Ginger Sauce

He Said: Main courses - 3 for 3. All just fantastic. The crispy skin and tender meat of the comfit and the tender moist meat of the breast. I am a huge onion guy and those onions were devoured quickly. The mixture of tastes here was perfect. The apple ginger sauce blended perfectly in and this was a thoroughly enjoyed dish. Another 8.

She Said: Yummy, duck! I'm surprised Jonathan shared this with me, but he did. I enjoyed the crispy and tender meat just as much, and the onions and radish blended in nicely with the tastes and textures. I would also give this an 8.



Barb's Dessert:


"Pastel de Tres Leches"

Pastel de Tres Leches, Cream Soaked Vanilla Cake with Ripe Mango and Rum Caramel Sauce

He Said: Served warm, the nice rich caramel flavor combined with the mango was really good. I will give it a 6

She Said: I do love caramel, and wasn't sure about the mango, but the combination was good. I kept thinking I was done, but found myself sneaking in another spoonful or two. I would give this a 7.5.


Elena's Dessert:

Carrot cake

Ginger-Almond Carrot Cake, Toasted Almonds and Mascarpone Icing

He said: Another good tasting dessert and I like the icing, however there was a problem with this. As you can see, the dessert is 2 tiered and I am guessing they store the individual cakes wrapped in plastic wrap and put them together right before being served. I say this, because there was a small bit of plastic wrap in between the two cakes. Elena saw it before it made it into her mouth and it did not effect the taste of the item, but after how good the entire meal had been it was a big letdown and took down the overall feeling of the evening. I will give it a 6 but will have to deduct from the over allscore for this.


She said: Another great dessert and except for the mishap well done. I liked the nuts and the cake blended in together, although wasn't a huge fan of the carrot's on top. I would give this a 6.5.

Jonathan's Dessert:

IMG_0524

Chocolate Brioche Bread Pudding, Butterscotch Anglaise and Macadamia Nut Brittle
and Pomegranate seeds


He Said: This was served warm and was very rich. The pomegranate seeds just drove it up another level with that fresh sweet flavor mixed in with the deep rich chocolate. Yum, I would go ahead and give this a 7

She Said: This was a good dish. We had chocolate bread pudding somewhere else and I didn't like it as much as I liked this one. Rich, chocolately, nutty - where could you go wrong? I would give it a 7.5.